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Confessions of a Surf Photographer
CONFESSIONS OF A SURF PHOTOGRAPHER
[ Blog ]
FEATURED POSTS:
Dear Bushra,
“I killed a deer for food this year. I am happy about it - and grateful to God for having something to eat for the next few months. But, the memories from the next week or so after I killed him are still burned hauntingly into my memory”.
| Angel of Death, |
Who would you listen to?
“Why doesn’t the guy pay for it?
“He has no money.”
“Ah right, the drinking problem. Makes sense I guess.”
| Wildlife |
“The reason for my trip to ****, was that I was chasing a swell. It was triple overhead+ on the biggest ones the previous time, this swell was forecast to be even bigger.”
“ I was standing at the rear of my car, trunk wide open, suitcase laid bare, fiddling with one of the screws on my camera's water housing when the fear hit me. “
| For Nouvelle Vague | Tackling Pipeline | Full-Length Vers |
“Nobody ever said it was going to be easy ….”
“But what struck me the most about this tree, was that from top to bottom, every inch of this tree was covered in thorns.”
| The Kapok Tree |
“ The pace of life, navigating traffic, being on such a tight schedule, the things people were saying, even just how fast people were talking to me was really jarring.”
| Back to America |
